I know that some will blast the further "regulation" of the world and its joys, but for someone like me who is tired of being asked by chain café employees whether I want my cappuccino "wet" or "dry," the codification by Italians of the proper cappuccino is very welcome. Anyway, it's their drink and they can codify it all they want, if you ask me.

Try though I might, I can't seem to explain to the "baristas" at the national chains that a cappuccino is a cappuccino … there aren't numerous versions. What they describe as a "dry" cappuccino is a cappuccino. What they persist in calling a "wet" cappuccino is a caffelatte. Sadly, at least one local coffee heavyweight's employees have also started doing this.

But why does it surprise me. One chain "barista" once told me that the difference between a latte and a macchiato is not the amount of milk -- as I had suggested -- but instead the order in which the ingredients were put into the cup. A latte, she said, is milk with espresso added. A macchiato is an espresso with milk added. Oy vey.

I'm pleased to relay the recipe for cappuccino as concocted by the National Institute for Italian Espresso (as reported by The Guardian):

Ingredients:

• 125ml milk, no warmer than 3-5C, containing a minimum of 3.2 percent protein and 3.5 percent fat
• 25ml shot of hot espresso coffee

Directions:

• Add coffee to a 150-160ml capacity ceramic cup
• Froth milk with steam to a temperature of 55C, and add to cup
• Add sugar and stir gently

I will admit, however, to occasionally having a post-noon cappuccino or caffelatte, although I do my best to avoid this no-no. I hope this won't be a problem at Italian passport control.