| By Julie Lawrence OnMilwaukee.com Staff Writer E-mail author | Author bio More articles by Julie Lawrence |
| Published Jan. 19, 2008 at 5:29 a.m. |
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Buckley's Kiskeam Inn is a family business from all angles.
At the request of his two sons, Britt and Taylor, Mike Buckley revived the namesake after an 18-year hiatus. He operated Buckley's for seven years as a Riverwest bar in the '80s, but eventually closed to spend more time with his family.
When his sons expressed interest in learning the business, he reopened as a restaurant at 801 N. Cass St. in February 2007, though he had one condition.
"We were going to have fun doing it," he says.
His conditions, it seems, have been met. The entire family has contributed to the restaurant's gorgeous transformation, from décor to desserts to acting as the head of the dining room.
Britt is the night manager, and often you'll find him engaging customers from behind the 15-ft. antique bar -- one that Mike personally drove back to Wisconsin from New York after glimpsing only a fraction of its historic charm, complete with the polished heads of Greek muses. His sense of style is dead on; the dark, elegant wood and soft white candle light contrasts beautifully against the silver-blue hue of the restaurant's cozy -- and smoke-free -- dining room.
Although the name rings with Irish pride -- Kiskeam is named for the County Cork, Ireland, hometown of Mike Buckley's grandmother -- the atmosphere here, as well as the menu, reflects a much more eclectic vibe.
"We're only Irish as far as the hospitality," says Britt. "Although, I did name our lamb stew "Irish stew" to get a plug in there."
Head chef Joe Sandretti is Italian, thus, the chicken Saltimbocca ($18) -- proscuitto and sage layered chicken sautéed in butter, shallots, white wine and served with garlic-mashed potatoes -- is a house favorite.
The Kobe beef sliders ($10), which come with greens, pickled red onion, horseradish and crumbles blue cheese have been immensely popular, as well. Business has been good in the year it's been open, Britt says, although the change over from the Lakeside Inn was tough on the former restaurant's customers.
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